DIY storage unit for children's bedroom

Storage is essential for a childs bedroom and this do-it-yourself storage unit provides plenty of storage.

05/02/2020

 

Ideal for a children's bedroom, this freestanding unit is designed to be easy as books or stuffed animal storage (or just any toys).There is even enough space to add storage baskets inside the individual compartments. The unit to designed to fit in the space between the two beds in his older twins' bedroom. You can modify the measurements if you want to make a custom unit to fit into a particular space. Overall dimensions 1200mm long x 383mm wide x 600mm high.

 

 

 

 

 

 

YOU WILL NEED:

2 of 380 x 1200mm pine - top and bottom shelf

1 of 600 x 120mm 3mm masonite - backing board

2 of 380 x 560mm pine - external sides

1 of 380 x 1160mm pine - middle shelf

3 of 380 x 560mm pine - internal dividers

4 x 45mm cut screws

Wood glue

Acrylic sealer

120- and 240-grit sanding pads

TOOLS:

Drill / Driver plus assorted bits

Countersink bit

Wood chisel

Orbital or random orbit sander

Tape measure and pencil

Steel rule or straightedge

Carpenter's square

Jigsaw + clean-cut blade

Find all the tools, materials and supplies for this project at your local Builders Warehouse.

Note: Due to the problems in working with pine for this project, I would recommend using 16mm SupaWood as an alternative. Having also previously experienced problems with our local pine, SupaWood is far stronger, will not bow or warp, plus it's easy to paint.

HERE'S HOW:

Assemble the frame
1. Start by joining the top and bottom of the unit to the sides to make the outer frame. There are various methods of joining the sections together; using a pockethole jig, using a biscuit joiner or dowels, drilling countersunk pilot holes and driving in screws, or adding angle brackets.

Assemble the inside shelves
2. On the horizontal middle shelf you need to make 3 half-slots for mounting the internal dividers.  From one end measure and mark at 275mm and 299mm, and repeat for the other 2 slots. Divide the width of the board in half. i.e. 190mm and draw  line across. Double-check all these measurements because any inaccuracies cannot be resolved and a new piece of wood will have to be cut if a mistake is made (I learnt this the hard way).

3.  Cut out the slots with a jigsaw and clean-cut blade. Ensure the necessary safety gear is worn and that the correct jigsaw blade is fitted to the saw.

4. Use a wood chisel to make the short cut in the middle of the wood at the end of the long cuts, as shown below. Repeat this step for the other two slots in the middle shelf, as well as the corresponding slots in the uprights.  (Also see Good To Know below).

GOOD TO KNOW
Rather than use a chisel and hammer, use your jigsaw to cut a 'V' shape at the end of the slot and then move the jigsaw backwards and forwards to remove the remaining wood or board.

ABOVE: Sections for middle shelf and upright dividers with cut out slots. Ensure that the correct measurements are used or else the pieces will not fit together and the internal compartments will be inaccurate.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Complete assembly
5. Slot the sections together and fit within the outside frame. Clamp the full assembly with long quick grip clamps, as shown, or preferably use sash clamps. Square up all right angles by checking with a carpenter's square. Adjust where necessary using a rubber mallet.

6. Secure the inner sections using corner brackets and screws while the clamps are in place. If you have extra clamps, use them at equal intervals to exert consistent force on the top shelf while fastening the interior components together. This will avoid bending the wood and leading to further inaccuracies.

GOOD TO KNOW:
If you are using a pockethole jig, drill holes in the top and bottom of the uprights, as well as at the end of the middle shelf.

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you plan of painting the finished project you can easily drill countersunk pilot holes through the outer frame and then fill with wood filler.

Note: While wood filler was used on gaps around the slotted sections, I would recommend using an acrylic sealer such a Woodmate. Pine expands and contracts and a flexible sealer won't crack should this occur.

Finishing

• Sand all the edges with 120-grit to remove any uneven edges and then sand down the entire piece with 240-grit sanding pads. Wipe clean to remove all traces of dust.
• Secure the backing board with panel pins hammered in at a slight angle, or with a heavy-duty staple gun and 10mm staples.
• You can paint or stain and varnish depending on your décor requirements. If you plan on staining and varnishing the finished project - use screw caps rather than wood filler. When painting, prime with wood primer if using an acrylic paint, or spray with Rust-Oleum 2X or Universal spray paint in your choice of colour.