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DIY kids mini-kitchen

I have seen some truly amazing mini kitchens for kids, but I like the clean lines and bright colours of this mini kitchen design. What little masterchef wouldn't love a mini kitchen like this to play with. This is a great gift idea for a nephew or niece, granddaughter or grandson, since we know little guys cook too if you watch Masterchef Kids!

 

lowes.com

YOU WILL NEED:

CUTTING LIST

 
QTY
W
L
MATERIAL
 ITEM
A
2
430
760
pine
 frame top/bottom
A
2
450
600
pine
 frame sides
A
1
410
520
pine
 frame centre divider
A
2
55
760
pine
 frame top/bottom rails
A
2
20
340
pine
 frame side rails
A
1
77
340
pine
 frame centre rail
C
4
20
pine
 cleats
D
2
390
368
pine
shelves
E
2
55
321,5
pine
 shelf fronts
F
See measurments below
G
1
500
820
see options*
countertop
H
1
100
820
"
backsplash
I
See measurements below
K
1
235
330
pine
 door
L
1
19
100
pine
 short handle
M
1
19
130
pine
 long handle
N
8
pine
 knobs
O
1
19
100
pine
 tap riser
P
1
19
100
pine
 tap arm
Q
28
6
100
pine
 hotplate
R
8
6
235
pine
 oven bars

*For the countertop you can use a single piece of pine, double up two pieces glued together for a thicker top, or use a piece of Formica LifeSeal countertop.

Pine curtain rod 50mm dia (B)
Length of 10mm dowel
Cabinet door repurposed to fit - or cut new door
20mm square length of PAR PINE
5 x 55mm wood screws
3 x 35mm wood screws
1 x 77mm wide PAR pine for tool holder (F) cut to (77 x 450 and sink inserts (I)
Kitchen countertop cut to 500 x 800mm for the top and back panel
Perspex panel 200 x 254mm for door
Wood glue
Wood filler
180-grit sandpaper
Tape measure and pencil
No More Nails adhesive
4 butt hinges
2 door magnets
4 feet

TOOLS:

Drill/Driver plus assorted bits
Countersink bits
Clamps
Utility knife
Carpenter’s square
Mitre saw

Find everything you need for this project at your local Builders Warehouse.

HERE'S HOW:

Make the cabinet
1. Construct the cabinet frame (A) by attaching the base to the sides. The base is raised 20mm up from the bottom. Use wood glue and 35mm wood screws. Pine is soft so you don't need to countersink the holes, but these will have to be filled with wood filler and sanded before painting.

2. To complete the cabinet frame attach the top, bottom, side and centre rails using 35mm wood screws.

3. From the pine curtain rod, cut 4 feet to a length of 50mm (B). Using wood glue and a 55mm-long screw to secure each foot in place. Position the feet as close as possible to the front, back, and sides under the bottom panel of the cabinet.

4. From the 20mm square PAR pine cut dowel for the cleats (C). Use wood glue and 30mm screws to secure them to the divider and inside walls of the cabinet. For perfect spacing every time, cut two scraps to the mounting height, position the scraps in the cabinet and rest cleat on top. Now attach each cleat in the perfect position every time.

5. Set the shelves in the cabinet on the cleats -- you’ll notice these shelves are a little short; this is for easy insertion into the cabinet. (Do not glue them in position; they’ll be easier to paint later if you remove them.) While the shelves are in place, drill pilot holes and attach the shelf edging (E) with screws. Mark the shelf edging that goes with each shelf and remove them.

6. In the tool holder (F) drill five 12mm holes to a depth of 10mm. Cut ten 12mm lengths of dowels to 35mm long and glue into the holes. When the glue dries, temporarily secure the holders in position with screws.

Good to Know:
Where instructions direct you to attach parts and then remove them, it's because the parts are easier to paint or finish when loose. In the end, this saves time and makes for a better result.

Make a Top
1. Retrieve the countertop (G) and mark out the locations of the burners, the holes for the knobs, and the sink cutout . Make sure to allow for the width of the backsplash. Drill 10mm holes near the corners of the sink opening to slip in the blade of a jigsaw. Placing the board on battens allows the extra height needed for the jigsaw blade. Clamp securely before cutting out the sink opening.

Note: If using Formica LifeSeal for the countertop, use a jigsaw blade speciically designed for cutting laminate.

2. Attach the splashback to the countertop using wood glue and screws. Centre the top and align the back of the backsplash even with the back of the cabinet and then temporarily clamp the top to the cabinet.

Cut and make sink
3. Cut the sink front/back and ends (I) from 77mm wide PAR pine to fit and insert into the opening. Cut the parts so they fit with just slight pressure (the cuts from the jigsaw will cause these dimensions to vary slightly); test-fit the parts until all four parts are in place. Once the four parts fit into the opening, remove them and apply glue to the ends of the sink parts and to the inside of the sink opening. Let the wood glue set. Use the offcut from cutting the hole to create a base for the sink. Use wood glue to firmly position at the base of the sink.

Make doors

1. Make any adjustments to the door (K) to fit and mark out the positions for fitting the knob, handle and opening for the perspex panel. In the door use a 10mm wood bit to drill clearance holes for a jigsaw blade. Cut out the opening and sand smooth.

2. Mount the short handle (L) onto the door.

NOTE: We repurposed an old kitchen cabinet door for this project. Alternatively, cut and make up a door to fit. The long handle (M) will be mounted to the existing door.

3. Add magnets to the inside of the door and to the shelf edging. Drill pilot holes near the corner of the perspex sheet and secure to the door using small screws.

Accessories

1. Cut the knobs (N) 20mm long and drill 10mm diameter holes to 12mm depth in each knob. Use a clamp to hold the pieces as you cut them to prevent them slipping around, or use a drill press.

2. Cut 10mm dowel into lengths of 14mm and glue the dowels into the holes in the handles.

3. Drill 6mm diameter holes 6mm deep in the countertop (G), backsplash (H), and oven door (K).

4. Slip the dowels into the drilled holes and then drill a 2mm pilot hole secure using a washer and screw at each location.

NOTE: Don't glue the knobs onto the dowels, so that these can be removed for painting.

5. To make the tap assembly cut the 50mm pine rod to length for the tap riser (O). At one end angle at 20-degrees.

6. Cut a 20mm square dowel to 100mm length for the tap arm (P). Drill 6mm holes on the bottom of the riser and on the arm. Cut two sections of 6mm dowel to length to join the riser to the tap arm and fasten the tap assembly to the countertop.
Sand the parts and glue assembly together.

7. Cut square dowels to make up the burners (Q) and oven bars (R) and glue in place. Spray with Rust-Oleum 2X satin canyon black and white for the knobs. Spray the tap with Rust-Oleum Universal titanium silver. Stick on the knob templates at the bottom of this page.

8. Before replacing knobs and assembles, sand the entire project with 180-grit sandpaper and round-off the corners. Paint with your choice of Plascon Double Velvet, applying two coats of on all surfaces, allow the paint to dry.

Finishing
Install the knobs and tap assembly using wood glue, attach countertop to base, add feet to base of cabinet, fit any remaining parts. Secure the door to the cabinet, centering it over the oven opening