Make a secret Picture Frame / Key Hanger
Using a picture frame as the basic design, we created a hidden key holder. Frame your favourite photos, or an image, while keeping keys in a safe place.
We made a picture frame from scratch and then used this to hide a key holder out of sight. Fill the picture frame with a family photo or interesting picture to complement your room decor. I finished the frame with a coastal theme to match the beach scene image I decided to frame.
The frame and cabinet were whitewashed and then given an antique effect with Rust-Oleum Smoked Glaze.
2 of 22 x 44 x 360mm pine - cabinet / box frame sides
4 of 22 x 44 x 320mm pine - cabinet / box frame top, bottom, supports
4 of 22 x 94 x 400mm pine - frame
2 of Moulding strips, 1800mm - frame - cut to length as required
1 of Moulding strip, 1800mm - cabinet / box frame - cut to length as required
1 of 3 x 330 x 355mm Evowood (Masonite), hardboard or supawood - backing
32mm coarse-thread pocket-hole screws 
Acrylic PVA, white and paintbrushes
OPTIONAL: Rust-Oleum Smoked Glaze
Butt hinges  + 16mm screws
4mm or 5mm glass, cut to fit
No More Nails adhesive
Drill / Driver plus assorted bits
Kreg pocket-hole jig + pocket-hole plugs 
Tape measure and pencil
OPTIONAL: Pneumatic Nailer + brad nails
1. Cut the pieces for the frame. Each section has a 45-degree (opposing) angle for the corners of the frame. Drill  pocket-holes at the ends of the side pieces for the frame.
2. Join the frame corners together with wood glue and 32mm screws.
GOOD TO KNOW: Use a clamp to hold the pieces firmly in place as you join together.
3. Fill any gaps - front and back - with wood filler and leave to dry before sanding smooth with 240-grit sandpaper.
44. Cut the moulding into strips - with 45-degree angles at the ends - to fit around the centre square of the frame. Make sure to allow for the 5mm overhang to support the glass - see point 5 below.
5. Glue the moulding strips onto the front of the frame, placing them 5mm over the edge of the centre square. This will allow the glass to sit on top of the framing strips.
6. Cover the nails and any gaps with wood filler; allow to dry and then sand smooth.
7. Paint the frame - front and back - with 2 coats of watered down acrylic PVA, white. Allow drying time between coats. Watering down the paint gives a whitewashed effect.
GOOD TO KNOW: Click here for more information on whitewashing on pine.
8. For antique or Shabby Chic effect apply Rust-Oleum Smoked Glaze.
9. Fit the cut piece of glass into the square opening and secure with a bead of No More Nails adhesive around the edge.
10. Make the cabinet / box frame section by gluing together the individual pieces as shown below.
11. For added stability, two 30mm screws were driven through the sides into the horizontal pieces. The holes were covered with wood filler and then sanded smooth. Two coats of watered down acrylic PVA were applied onto the finished box frame to give a whitewashed finish.
12. Secure the backing board with brad nails. If you don't over a brad nailer, use a hammer and panel pins or a heavy-duty stapler. Allow a gap at the top for fitting the keyhole hangers in the next step.
13. Attach Eureka Slotted Hangers at the top of the backing board.
14. Cut moulding to fit inside the cabinet / box frame and glue in place.
15. Screw in Eureka Cup Hooks.. Eureka cup hooks are available in assorted styles and sizes.
16. Place the cabinet / box frame face down on the back of the frame and mark with a pencil. On the back of the frame, mark at 60mm up from the top and bottom edge.
14. Use the drawn lines and mark to attach butt hinges to the frame back and cabinet / box frame front.
15. Finally, secure a door catch to the frame and cabinet / box frame. For this project a double roller catch was used, but you can just as easily use a magnetic hinge catch. Eureka have a selection of door fastenings.